The Great Biryani War: Hyderabadi vs. Lucknowi vs. Kolkata (Let’s Settle This)

Rajesh Seshadri
5 days ago
5 min read

In India, we are a diverse nation. We speak different languages, we pray to different Gods, and we support different IPL teams. But there is one thing that unites us all, and simultaneously threatens to tear the country apart: Biryani.

It is not just a dish, yaar. It is an emotion. It is the answer to "What should we order?" on a lazy Sunday. It is the centerpiece of every Walima (wedding reception). It is the only reason some of us attend office parties.

But ask a Desi, "Which city makes the Best Biryani?" and watch the room explode.

The Hyderabadi will scream about "Masala." The Lakhnavi (Lucknowi) will whisper about "Nazakat" (delicacy). And the Bengali? The Bengali will silently point to the Potato (Aloo) with tears in his eyes.

Today, we are stepping into the battlefield. We are putting the Big Three in the ring: Hyderabadi vs. Lucknowi vs. Kolkata. Put on your bibs, grab a Thums Up, and chalo, let’s settle this.

Contender 1: Hyderabadi Biryani (The Spicy Heavyweight)

The Vibe:Imagine a Bollywood action movie directed by Rohit Shetty. Loud, colorful, explosive, and leaves you sweating. That is Hyderabadi Biryani.

The Technique:This is the "Kachchi Aqni" style. Raw meat and raw rice go into the pot together, sealed with dough (Dum), and slow-cooked over coals. It is risky business. If the chef messes up, the meat is raw or the rice is mush. But when it works? Solid magic.

The Flavor Profile:It hits you in the face. It is heavy on spices—cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and enough chili to make your ears smoke. It is usually served with Mirchi ka Salan (a peanut and chili curry) because clearly, the rice wasn't spicy enough.

Why We Love It:It’s robust. It’s unapologetic. It’s the "Paisa-Vasool" meal that makes you want to sleep for three hours immediately after eating.

The Verdict: Investing in a plate of Paradise or Bawarchi Biryani is high risk (heartburn), high reward (soul satisfaction).

Contender 2: Lucknowi / Awadhi Biryani (The Royal Softie)

The Vibe: Think of a Ghazal concert. Soft, poetic, slow, and sophisticated. You don't eat this; you experience it with your pinky finger up.

The Technique: This is the "Pakki" style. The meat is cooked separately in a rich broth (Yakhni), and the rice is cooked separately with saffron and star anise. They meet only at the end for a brief "Dum" (steam).

The Flavor Profile: Subtle. If Hyderabadi is heavy metal, Lucknowi is jazz. The rice grains are long and separate. The meat is so tender it falls off the bone if you stare at it too hard. It’s distinctly aromatic using Kewra water and rose water.

Why We Love It: It melts in the mouth. It doesn't attack your palate; it seduces it. It feels "Royal."

The Verdict: It’s classy. But for the average Indian who loves a "chatpata" kick, it might feel a bit too... polite.

Contender 3: Kolkata Biryani (The Aloo Apologist)

The Vibe: Intellectual, controversial, and deeply sentimental. It’s like an Art Film—some people swear it’s a masterpiece, others just don't get it.

The "Elephant in the Room": The Potato.Let’s address the controversy. Kolkata Biryani has a massive, deep-fried Potato (and a boiled egg) hidden inside.

Non-Bengalis: "Why is there a vegetable in my meat dish?! Cheap filler!"
Bengalis: "The Aloo absorbs all the flavor! It is the best part! Don't you dare touch it!"

The Technique: It actually evolved from the Lucknowi style (when the Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was exiled to Kolkata). But due to budget constraints, the cooks added potatoes to bulk it up. It stuck. It uses sweeter spices (nutmeg, mace) and is much lighter on the stomach.

The Verdict: If you can get past the potato prejudice, it is actually delicious. It’s subtle, slightly sweet, and very comforting.

Fact-Check: Sorting the Chai-Tapri Myths

Let’s clean up the "WhatsApp University" rumors about our beloved rice dish.

Myth 1: "Veg Biryani is a real type of Biryani."

Fact: EXCUSE ME? Please sit down. There is no such thing.Technically, Biryani implies meat cooked with rice. If you put vegetables in rice with spices, that is called Pulao. Or "Tehri." Do not disrespect the Biryani Gods by calling your beans and carrots "Biryani." It is a marketing scam by restaurants to charge vegetarians ₹300 for rice.

Myth 2: "The more yellow the rice, the better the Biryani."

Fact: Fake news. If your rice is neon yellow, the chef went crazy with food coloring (Tartrazine). Real saffron gives a subtle, uneven golden hue. Neon yellow usually means "Chemical Locha."

Myth 3: "Biryani is just leftovers mixed together."

Fact: That is "Fried Rice," boss. Biryani is a planned architectural marvel. The layering (Teh) takes precision engineering. Don't insult the chef.

The Paisa-Vasool Metric: Which Biryani Wins on Value?

We are Indians. We want quantity and quality.

Hyderabadi: Winner on Quantity. A "Single" portion in Hyderabad is usually enough to feed a small village. You get mounds of rice and big chunks of meat.
- Rating: 5/5 Paisa-Vasool.
Kolkata: Winner on "Standard" fullness. The potato and egg add serious volume. It’s the poor man’s feast that feels like a king’s meal.
- Rating: 4/5 Paisa-Vasool.
Lucknowi: The Luxury Tax. The portions are often smaller, the meat is refined, and the price is higher because of the saffron and nuts. It’s not about filling the stomach; it’s about filling the soul.
- Rating: 3/5 Paisa-Vasool (but 5/5 for Taste).

Hyper-Localization: The Side Dish Debate

You can tell where a person is from by what they demand on the side.

South (Hyderabad/Bangalore): "Where is the Salan?" (Curry). If you give them just Raita, they will riot.
North (Delhi/Lucknow): "Bhaiya, extra Raita and onions with green chutney."
East (Kolkata): "Nothing." Maybe a "Chaap" (meat cutlet) on the side. But the Biryani stands alone.

Conclusion: The Diplomatic Truth (Don't Hit Me)

So, who wins?

If you want to be knocked out by spice and sleep for 4 hours? Hyderabad.If you want to feel like a Nawab in an air-conditioned room? Lucknow.If you love potatoes more than you love some of your relatives? Kolkata.

The beauty of India is that we don't have to choose permanently. We can have Hyderabadi for lunch and Kolkata for dinner (if our digestion allows).

The only loser in this war? The person eating "Veg Biryani." Sorry, not sorry.

Now, go order a plate. You know you want to.

Commonly Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Is Pulao the same as Biryani? A: No! Pulao is made by the "Absorption Method" (meat/veg and rice cooked together in water until dry). Biryani is made by the "Draining Method" (rice is parboiled, drained, and then layered over meat for Dum cooking). They are chemically different.

Q: Which Biryani is the spiciest? A: Generally, Hyderabadi Biryani (specifically the Andhra style or "Donne" Biryani of Bangalore) is the spiciest. Lucknowi and Kolkata are much milder.

Q: Why do Kolkata folks put Potato in Biryani? A: History says when Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was exiled from Lucknow to Kolkata, money was tight. Meat was expensive, but potatoes were a new, exotic vegetable introduced by the Portuguese. The cooks added it to bulk up the meal, and it became a signature style.

Q: Where can I find the best Biryani in India? A: This is a trap question! But "Standard" legendary spots include: Paradise (Hyderabad), Tunday Kababi or Idris (Lucknow), and Arsalan (Kolkata).